Climbing sling lengths reddit Nylon stays strong longer and doesn't slip as much when used in a girth or clove hitch. You can also use them on natural features like trees, threads, and chickenheads. Slings and runners generally come in single and double sizes, with the single length being at least 2-3 times longer than the average quick draw. 8 singles and 2 doubles is a pretty good and common setup, although 6 single and 2 doubles would be pretty reasonable, also, considering that you're also getting If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces w/ a double length sling to extend them a bit. They are heavy, but burly. While the shorter length is perhaps more common, the longer length is certainly more versatile. My standard draw arsenal is 6 alpine draws, 5 single length and 2 double lengths over my shoulder. 5mm tech cord), a quadruple-length sling (240cm), or two 120cm slings. Will deploy… My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. I have only ever seen 5-6' prusiks used as a 3rd hand while abseiling or rappelling. I also like the trick where I have one or two double lengths over the opposite shoulder, doubled up with a carabiner and under the single length sling-sling. The extension is marginal, nothing an alpine draw can't do better. Therefore since the protection will pull out at a force far below the breaking strength of your sling, the sling will NEVER feel enough force to snap. for slings the bare minimum i'l have in my pack is: 8 shoulder lengths (2 with light weight lockers), 2-4 dbl. Dynema is amazing. Sport; I like fat slings (to grab on to and doesn't twist), a nice gate action (some are too stiff, some too loose), favorite gate type for the rope side is a banana-shaped wire (nice and wide so the biner doesn't rotate instead of the rope clipping in) and fat carabiners that last. As others have said. Sport draws clipped to a 30cm sling and hanging from a hook in a rafter. Mostly because its easier to untie an overhand knot or a clove hitch with it, and if you fell on it while using as a PAS its much safer than dyneema (see this scary DMM video showing 2 foot direct falls on slings). Like everyone else, the Petzl Djinn are my favorite so far. The force is distributed over the length of the sling/cord, so the longer the cord the more it can withstand. In a basket hitch, the rated working load was like 1. The label on that is the actual breaking strength of the sling, rather than the 10x safety factor you see on industrial stuff. Jul 5, 2020 · I’ve been climbing trad for 2. This version has 2 arms, one is a fixed length and designed to be used to extend your rappel (though you can use it as an anchor as well), and the other arm is longer with an ascender type device that you can use to adjust the length. Since your quickdraw will all be a standard length, using different lengths of runners to create a variety of options for draw lengths to use together. Draws made from slings and biners (aka alpine draws) are nice for trad climbing when you're climbing multiple pitches below your limit. shoulder lengths (1 locker apiece), 2 sport draws, 25' of cordelette, at least one of the dbl shoulder slings from knotted tube webbing. Dyneema has very little stretch and falling with a dyneema sling attached to an anchor can generate a massive amount of force, sometimes enough to break the sling. And yes, you can tie knots in it in and no it won't break (for any normal anchor building application). I have nine 60cm alpine draws, two 120cm slings for roofs, and one 240cm sling for anchors (I have a cordelette as well for multipitch anchors). Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic While in the pack to-and-from the crag, I take all the shoulder length slings and stack them together and tie a big overhand knot in the middle with them. I don't know why people are feeding you a bunch of ridiculous information in this thread. Setting up anchors Posted by u/shredwhiteandblue - 2 votes and 21 comments Mar 3, 2025 · Building a quad requires either a cordelette at least 14 feet in length (6mm nylon minimum or 5. Dyneema is way better for alpine draws. It is maybe slightly bulky, but I haven't found it to be an issue. I climb in the Gunks where there is a fair mix of tree anchors, bolted anchors, and gear anchors. What length and thickness of static rope is a good starting point to build an anchor? I was thinking maybe 10m (33ft) and 11mm as it it might be rubbing up against things. However a single snake sling can only be used full length to extend something else. Remember you can also cut some cost by slinging single length slings with biner over your shoulder for cam placements. All in all the draw weighs in at 60 grams. May 26, 2020 · I use double length nylon sling to extend rappel or make a PAS for cleaning. What are common sling lengths folks find useful for tree work? I have a bunch of webbing and I’d like to make some beer-knotted slings. Very versatile edit for clarity: The smaller your friction knot diameter is the more it Bites. Most people I know use a sling or two to clip into the anchor setup. Re-racking them is an extra step that can take a second or two, and is also a pain in the ass for the follower. The retailer I buy off is only offering either 8mm or 11mm in width. What should my next quickdraw purchases be? Individuals with different lengths of webbing? I also really like to keep 1 or 2 lengths of cord, still 6 mm, About the same loop length of a shoulder length sling because I could use that as an Emergency runner if I need to. They are lighter, rack better and are easier to extend. The only time I would take cordelette is if I'm in a more adventurous area and I may have to cut my cord to make rap anchors on the descent. I've been leading indoors for a few months and I'm super pumped about doing some sport outdoors. Here’s how to tie it: Unfurl your sling or cordelette into one giant loop and double it into a smaller, two-stranded loop. e. Single-length slings (60cm/24 in. Slings are cheap, ubiquitous, and can be knotted to create different pockets. This is for a solo project, I wont get into the details but im doing some urban climbing and just need some protection while climbing a tower. Also make sure you understand the various sling tension / sling angle configurations and use what is best for your given situation. Just don't go climbing over it full length, and falling directly on it (although it could probably take that). 8mm and just ordered a Black Diamond Positron Quickpack (12cm slings). You can easily store this system on your harness. Long enough to build and anchor and tie a knot in so you can clip two bolts when using as a PAS. You usually need no more than 1 or 2. May 26, 2020 · Nylon for anchor slings, Dyneema (dynex) for extending pro. Generally you never need a 240 sling if you're able to be creative with anchor building, but a lot of people like them because it can help simplify things. Personally, I find the feature to be useless. I would make them longer and the "power point" shorter. They allow two different options for extension, ~20cm or 60cm. Trad climbers will often forgo the Personal Anchor System and just use slings, since they have many on their harness already. There have been zero situations in my climbing career where I found myself wishing for the extendable sling feature. Shoes piled up in a wire basket. The slings doubled up are stronger yes. I still carry a double length nylon for a person anchor or if I need something maybe a bit more abrasion resistant. 5 years now and I’m slowly working on trimming up my typical rack and making it more efficient. Dyneema is lighter and thinner. Get a 100ft static 8mm line. Its jus so easy to go "clip-clip-clip-PullDown-MasterpointKnot-Done" and I always carry a few extra double length slings in case of something like having to build a four or five piece anchor. If there is not good beta for the route than bring 1 draw for every 5m on the longest pitch plus a few extras. Jul 10, 2023 · For example, in a multi-pitch climbing scenario where you plan to descend on the fixed anchors you just used for climbing the last pitch, rigging a rappel involves transferring the load, i. eg. Depends on your local climbing area. Longer slings can be clipped from lower (provided the draws are already hanging), a great advantage depending on the route. Shop for Slings at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. These (or the 180 cm slings you mentioned) could be used as draw extenders in your case. Dyneema. The slings they had were these specialty endless slings made of Kevlar in some fancy higher denier nylon. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. com Longer slings are more effective at reducing rope drag than a quickdraw, but are also heavier and bulkier. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Yep, static line is probably your best option for extending toprope anchors. Otherwise use a master point (an 8 is better than an overhand if you have the slack, easier to untie). The discussion over nylon vs. it depends on where you're climbing. The only issue I can see with making your own is if you make a normal length sling, and double it so it's shorter as a quick-draw, there might be some hanky panky if you're trying to extend it to the regular length by unclipping the biner, clipping 1 strand and then pulling. Those slings aren’t nearly long enough to reduce angles enough. Keep slack out of your static anchors. Double-length slings provide a whopping four feet of extension and are more useful for rigging and anchors than for extending a single piece of pro. The only concern I have is the length of the bunny ears. On a climbing harness already heavy with gear, carrying light draws makes a difference. So we tested it. I augment my kit with Nitize plastic s-biner #4 (25lbs) and #2. Say I get to the chains of a sport route and find a comfortable stance to set my rappel, but the only soft gear I have with me is a 120cm sling that is too long to use as an anchor. 6 million pounds. keeps them from snagging the gear in the bag or making huge rat's nests. the knot might snag. A single can work over most 4x6 rigs but is often tight to do with 1 beaner. On the way down I use a double length sling with an overhand tied somewhere below middle using the extended rappel/personal anchor combo. of tubular 1" webbing and cut it into lengths to make you own double length, or even larger, tied slings. Mar 13, 2019 · A simple nylon or dyneema sling can function as a personal anchor, although such a thing is certainly less versatile than the other options. The weakest link is the protection(Cam, nut, whatever) you put into the wall. Belay device, cordelette, nut tool stay on my harness. Super quick to adjust to your desired length for the belay and when you're taking apart the anchor you just slide the clove off, throw your anchor on your harness and get going. I have only had to use the two 30s together once when the hangers were removed from a set of anchors and had to sling a block that was well back from the edge of the climb. Those cam placements are surely jankier than the huge trees next to them. All my alpine draws are dynema and my favourite piece of rack is my quad length dynema sling. haha true that, climbing with someone with DIY gear. dyneema slings is a long one and worth reading up on. The image of a sling straight vs doubled vs girth hitched and it's relative strengths float around and is taken as doctrine. The clipping feel is incredible. I always carry prussik cord with me when climbing outdoors, because I like the option to go hands free on rappel, and have anchor building material. Alpine draws clipped to a 30cm sling and hanging from a hook in a rafter. i stopped using cord about a year ago and i will never go back. If you have other suggestions I am open Different quantities/lengths of cord or sling. Get the scoop on how it stands up to the competition in our review of climbing slings. ufwuhrsi nnczsi auy gvov gjsbch shsqpdz nefegz ith tgq wgpyjr qvmzf wfht xlmjg nzak vnw